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4WD Power Consumption Calculator

Size your daily draw and battery bank from the appliances you actually run.

Appliance list

ApplianceWattsHours/day
Reset

Daily draw

700Wh

Amps (12 V)

58.3Ah

Solar needed

1.5× 100 W

Per-appliance watt-hours

  • Fridge, lights, USB700 Wh (70 W × 10 h)

Battery bank (AGM)

117Ah

Battery bank (Lithium)

73Ah

AGM figures allow a 50 % depth-of-discharge; lithium an 80 % usable window. Real-world fridges cycle on and off, so a quality dual-battery setup plus a DC-DC charger keeps things safe on long hot runs.

All calculations run on our servers from the values you enter — nothing is stored.

Please note — These results are planning estimates, not engineering advice. A 12V system can deliver very high current, so fuse every circuit close to the battery and use cable rated for your true amp draw. For any 240V inverter feed, fixed wiring or caravan install, follow AS/NZS 3000 and use a licensed auto-electrician or electrician.

A 12 volt system only works when the maths adds up. This calculator turns your gear into real numbers you can plan around. You enter the watts each appliance pulls. You enter how many hours it runs each day. The tool then adds it all up for you.

You get three useful figures back. Daily watt-hours show your total energy use. Amp-hours show the load you place on a battery. A bank size tells you what to buy. It also flags the solar you may need to keep up.

The numbers are built around Australian conditions. Hot days push a fridge to work far harder. Dust and long corrugations test every connection. Use this tool to plan a set-up that will not leave you flat. It is a planning aid, not a substitute for good gear or safe wiring.

Try a preset

How it works

Every appliance does the same simple sum. Its watts multiplied by its hours gives watt-hours. So a 45 watt fridge running ten hours uses 450 watt-hours. Add up every appliance and you get your daily total. That is the energy your battery must refill each day.

Amps are the same idea shown at 12 volts. Divide your daily watt-hours by 12 and you get amp-hours. A 450 watt-hour fridge draws about 38 amp-hours. Your battery is rated in amp-hours too, so the match is direct. This is how you see if a battery can carry your load.

Battery size then depends on chemistry. A lead-acid battery should not drop below half charge. Lithium can go far deeper and stay safe. The tool splits both figures for you. That way you can weigh cost against real usable capacity before you buy anything.

A worked example

Take a common weekend set-up. A 40 litre fridge runs at 45 watts for ten hours. That is 450 watt-hours. A strip of LED lights draws ten watts for three hours, so 30 watt-hours. A phone and a GPS use 18 watts for two hours, or 36 watt-hours.

Add those together and you get 516 watt-hours a day. Divide by 12 and that is about 43 amp-hours. A lead-acid bank would need roughly 86 amp-hours to stay above half charge. A lithium bank near 54 amp-hours covers the same day with room to spare.

This is the reason many tourers fit a 100 amp-hour lithium cell. It clears the daily load with a healthy margin. That margin is for heat, for extra fridge runs, and for wiring that has seen a few outback seasons.

How to use this calculator

Start with your fridge. It is almost always the biggest draw in a camp set-up. Enter its rated watts and a realistic run time. A good compressor fridge cycles on and off, so ten to twelve hours of run time is a fair summer guess.

Next add the small loads. Lights, phone chargers and a 12 volt fan are quick wins. Keep each entry honest. Do not count an hour you will never really run. When you are unsure, round the hours up rather than down. That builds you a safe margin.

Then read the three results in order. Check the daily watt-hours first. Then the amp-hour figure. Then compare the AGM and lithium bank sizes against what you can fit and afford. Press reset to clear the form and try another set-up a different way.

Interpreting your result

Amp-hours are the number that matters most here. Your battery and your solar panels are both rated in them. If your daily figure sits close to your battery's usable capacity, you have no room for error. Heat, a half-open lid and a long charge lead all push the real draw higher.

The solar figure is a rough guide as well. It assumes a good day of strong Australian sun. Cloudy coastal mornings and low winter angles cut that harvest short. Treat the panel number as a floor, not a ceiling. Add margin if you rarely get a plug-in.

If your result feels tight, the fix is usually simple. Run the fridge on a warmer safe setting. Switch to efficient LED lighting. Keep the fridge full and shaded, and out of direct sun. Each one trims your daily load without any new cost at all.

Accuracy, assumptions and limits

This tool uses rated watts, not measured ones. A label plate often shows peak draw, not the average. Real fridges sip power once they are stable, then spike on hot days. Your true figure can sit well below or above the estimate on any given trip.

Battery chemistry sets the safety limits in the maths. The AGM figure assumes a 50 percent depth of discharge. Lithium assumes 80 percent. An old or sulphated battery holds less than the sticker says. Inverter idle losses and thin cable also eat into what reaches your gear.

So treat the output as a planning map, not gospel. Confirm the exact figures against your own appliance and battery manuals. For any mains or fixed wiring, follow the AS/NZS 3000 Wiring Rules and use a licensed auto-electrician for the install.

Rule of thumb

Plan your bank for your worst realistic day, then add a third. The margin is where heat, old cable and surprise trips live.

Power in practice: heat, inverters and hidden load

Real trips rarely match a tidy spec sheet. Heat is the biggest single variable. A fridge in a hot rear cabin works far harder than one sitting in shade. The compressor runs longer, the duty cycle climbs, and your daily watt-hours can climb close to double.

Inverters quietly steal power too. Even with nothing plugged in, a small inverter idles away a few watts around the clock. Run it only when you truly need mains. Better still, charge low-voltage devices straight from the 12 volt side to skip that loss entirely.

Water and air add hidden load as well. A pump, a fan and a UHF radio draw modest current one at a time. Over a long hot night, they still add up. Build headroom into your bank, and the maths stays honest even on your worst afternoon.

None of this needs fancy gear. It needs honest numbers and a little slack. Plan for the worst realistic day, keep your loads tidy, and a sensible bank will carry the whole trip without drama.

The formula

Daily Wh = Σ (watts × hours) • Amp-hours = Daily Wh ÷ 12

Wh
Watt-hours — energy used. Watts multiplied by the hours a device runs.
Ah
Amp-hours — that same energy drawn across a 12 volt system.
DoD
Depth of discharge — the share of a battery you can safely use.
Σ
Sum — add every appliance's watt-hours together first.

Typical 12V appliance draws

ApplianceTypical wattsRun hours/dayDaily watt-hours
40 L compressor fridge40–508–12320–600 Wh
LED lighting strip5–103–415–40 Wh
Phone + GPS charging15–201–215–40 Wh
12V sandwich fan10–204–640–120 Wh
UHF radio (idle + use)1–5varies5–20 Wh
Small inverter (laptop)40–602–380–180 Wh
12V water pump / shower30–600.5–115–60 Wh

Key terms

Watt-hour (Wh)
A measure of energy. It is the watts a device uses multiplied by the hours it runs.
Amp-hour (Ah)
Charge moved over time. On a 12 volt system, about 12 watt-hours equals one amp-hour.
Depth of discharge (DoD)
The share of a battery you can use before recharging. AGM suits about 50 percent, lithium 80 to 90 percent.
Duty cycle
The fraction of time a fridge compressor actually runs. Heat, fill level and lid openings all change it.
DC-DC charger
A smart charger that refills a second battery from the alternator while you drive, safely and to the right profile.

Pro tips

  • Shade your fridge and keep it full. A cold, packed box cycles far less than an empty one sitting in the sun.
  • Set the fridge to the warmest safe temperature for what is inside. Every degree lower costs extra runtime.
  • Run a DC-DC charger so driving refills the bank. Solar alone rarely catches a hot week of heavy fridge use.
  • Fuse every circuit near the battery and match the cable gauge to your true amps. Undersized wiring is a fire risk, not just a voltage drop.

Common mistakes

  • Sizing a battery to one fridge and forgetting every other load on the system.
  • Trusting the sticker watts as an average when it is really a short peak draw.
  • Charging a lithium bank through old, thin cable that was only meant for a start battery.

Frequently asked questions

How many watts does a 12V camping fridge use?

Most compressor fridges draw about 40 to 50 watts while the compressor runs. Across a full day they hold roughly 300 to 600 watt-hours. That total depends on the ambient heat, how full the box is, and how often the lid gets opened on the campsite.

What size battery do I need to run a fridge?

Take the fridge daily watt-hours, divide by 12 for amp-hours, then divide by your battery safe depth of discharge. A 450 watt-hour fridge needs about 38 amp-hours. So a 100 amp-hour lithium cell carries it with plenty of room left for lights and charging.

Is AGM or lithium better for a 4WD?

Lithium gives far more usable capacity, weighs much less, and lasts many more charge cycles. AGM is cheaper up front and simpler to fit. For serious touring, lithium usually costs less across its working life and frees up space and weight in the vehicle.

Do I need solar if I already have a DC-DC charger?

A DC-DC charger refills your bank while you drive, which suits long touring days. Solar earns its keep when you sit parked off-grid for days at a time. Many set-ups run both, sizing the panel to your daily load and the roof or rail space you have.

How accurate is this 4WD power calculator?

It is accurate to the numbers you enter, using rated watts and honest run hours. Real draw shifts with temperature and duty cycle, so treat the result as a close planning estimate. Confirm the exact figures against your own appliance and battery manuals before you buy.

How we built this calculator

Written by
Track & Canopy Editorial Team — Gear & Power Desk
How we calculate
Typical appliance draws and depth-of-discharge figures were compiled from manufacturer datasheets and published 12V battery and fridge guidance, then cross-checked against common Australian dual-battery practice.
Last reviewed
15 October 2026

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Track & Canopy — Practical gear advice for Australian conditions. Estimates are planning aids, not engineering advice.